Winter is finally starting to show lots of activity in the South Pacific! This recent swell was generated by the same storm as the famous swell that hit Tahiti in mid-May. These pictures are from May 21st which is a bank holiday in Chile, we celebrate « El día de las Glorias Navales » (i.e. The Day of Naval Glories)…could not be better!
I spent 5 hours in the water, most of the time alone. The conditions were unreal! I had been behind this wave for a long time and it finally happened…a great reward. I was riding the Naish Hokua Gun 10’8, and initially thought I should have taken a 9’8, but slowly the bombs started to come and was quite happy to have a bit of extra length.
